Flamenco Néroli: vibrant, radiant orange blossom
When Pierre Guguen launched his brand in 2017, he immediately unveiled a series of five parfums, signed by the female duo de Flair. Five fragrances, each featuring a different musical style. Among them, Flamenco Néroli plunges us into the heart of Seville, to the rhythm of the arpeggios of a flamenco guitar.
To set the scene, perfumer Anne-Sophie Behaghel played with neroli, better known as orange blossom. An icon of Andalusia - Seville is populated by orange trees that are fragrant in spring - but also of perfumery. Its faceted fragrance readily lends itself to the creative imagination of perfumers. Here's an opportunity to explore the secrets of this unanimously acclaimed flower. Indeed, rarely does anyone dislike orange blossoms.
Neroli origins and cultivation
Neroli comes from the bitter orange tree, native to China and India. Its cultivation later spread to the Mediterranean region, as well as to Spain, where it was imported by the Arabs as early as the 9th century. It was introduced to Europe during the Crusades in the 11th century.
Today, orange blossoms are produced in Spain, Morocco, Egypt and Tunisia. In France, the tree is still grown at Vallaurys, in Provence. It is a prolific tree for perfumery, since all its elements are suitable for perfumery: from fruit to flower to leaves. Distilling the fruit yields bitter orange essential oil, distilling the twigs yields petitgrain essential oil, and distilling the flower yields orange blossom essential oil or absolute.
Orange blossoms are harvested in spring, over a period of almost a month.
Neroli owes its name to Marie de Trémoille-Noirmoutiers, wife of Orsini, Duchess of Bracciano, Princess of Chalais and Neroli, who loved the natural freshness of orange blossom.
Neroli or orange blossom?
Why do we speak of neroli and orange blossom? The distinction between these two terms, which designate the same flower, lies in the extraction techniques used. Orange blossom is the only flower that can withstand distillation and solvent extraction. Depending on the technique used, we speak of neroli or orange blossom absolute.
When orange blossom is distilled, an essential oil called neroli is obtained. This method emphasizes the fresh facets of the flower, producing an essential oil with a floral, zesty, herbaceous fragrance. Neroli exudes a certain candor, a sensation that draws on the world of childhood, as many baby creams borrow its scent. This essential oil is expensive (nearly 6,000 euros per kilo), due to its low yield. On average, it takes one ton of flowers to produce one kilo of neroli.
Solvent extraction reveals a more sensual face of the flower. This technique involves pouring the flowers into vats filled with hexane, ethanol or supercritical CO2, to obtain a concrete. A waxy, fragrant paste, which is then washed in a hydroalcoholic solution, then filtered to preserve the alcohol-soluble fragrant parts and obtain orange blossom absolute. More heady, it becomes narcotic, round and honeyed.
These two techniques reveal two different facets of the flower, between freshness and sensuality. A duality that sometimes earns it the nickname of the “lolita” of perfumery.
Neroli: olfactory profile
Neroli exhales zesty, herbaceous and floral nuances. As a white flower, like jasmine, tuberose and ylang-ylang, neroli also has a sunny side. Orange blossom absolute is rounder, honeyed and bewitching.
This complex scent is due to the flower's organic structure. To the molecules that are part of its natural composition, which perfumers use to exalt certain facets of the flower. Like lilanol, common to bergamot, lavender and neroli, which supports its zesty, citrusy tones. Or indole, with its animal, carnal breath. But also methyl anthranylate, which emphasizes the “orange” aspect, a sweeter facet of neroli. Benzyl salicylates amplify its sunny charm.
From flower to Flamenco Neroli
For L'Orchestre Parfum, Anne-Sophie Behaghel dresses neroli in cedar and amber woods to reproduce the vibration of guitar strings. In a play of contrasts, she exalts the flower's citrusy, herbaceous freshness with bergamot and lavender, infusing the fragrance with radiance. A ball of musk underscores the natural sweetness of the flower, adding roundness and comfort to the trail. A vibrant, luminous fragrance.
Article written by Sophie Normand for L'Orchestre Parfum